Best Skid Steer Attachments for Fence Building: A Buyer's Guide
Share
Best Skid Steer Attachments for Fence Building
Clearing the line, setting the posts, moving the material — here are the attachments that turn a skid steer into a fence crew.
Updated August 2026 ● 12 min read ● Skid Steer Attachment Shop
⚡ Quick Answer
The two attachments that matter most for fence building are a post-hole auger for holes and set posts, and a hydraulic post driver for driving posts without digging. Around those, a root grapple tears out old fence, a brush cutter opens the fence row, and pallet forks move posts and wire down the line. Which combination you need comes down to your soil, your post type, and how many posts you set in a year.
📋 In This Article
- Fence Building Is Three Jobs, Not One
- Post-Hole Augers: The Default Choice
- Hydraulic Post Drivers: The Speed Play
- Auger vs. Post Driver: Which Do You Need?
- What Size Auger Bit for Fence Posts?
- Clearing the Fence Line First
- Root Grapples: Tearing Out the Old Fence
- Pallet Forks: The Attachment Nobody Budgets For
- Backfill, Concrete, and Finish Work
- Matching Attachments to Your Fence Type
- Common Fence-Building Mistakes
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Shop Fence Building Attachments
Most people shopping for fence attachments are shopping for one thing: a way to get posts in the ground faster. That is the right instinct, but it is only a third of the job. Walk a real fence project start to finish and the post setting is rarely what eats the day — it is the brush in the row, the old wire that has to come out first, and the crew carrying posts a hundred feet at a time because nothing on the machine can haul them.
Here is what actually earns its keep on a fence job, what each attachment costs you in flow and capacity, and where to spend versus rent.
1. Fence Building Is Three Jobs, Not One
Every fence project breaks into the same three phases, and each one wants a different attachment:
- Clear the line. Brush, saplings, old wire, rotted posts, and stumps sitting exactly where the new post needs to go.
- Set the posts. Drill them or drive them — and on most jobs, both.
- Move the material. Posts, wire rolls, panels, gravel, bagged concrete, and the spoil coming out of every hole.
A crew that only solves phase two ends up hand-clearing brush and hand-carrying posts. That is where the labor cost hides.
2. Post-Hole Augers: The Default Choice
A skid steer auger is the most versatile fence attachment you can own. The drive mounts to the quick-attach coupler, runs off auxiliary hydraulics, and turns a replaceable bit. It handles nearly every soil condition and every post type, and it stays useful long after the fence is done — sign posts, deck footings, tree planting, and pier holes are all auger work.
Best For — Post-Hole Auger
Use it when: Posts are set in concrete, you are drilling corner and gate posts, the ground is too hard or rocky to drive, or the design calls for a specific depth below the frost line.
Hydraulic flow: Standard flow (roughly 11–25 GPM) covers most auger drives; high-flow versions exist for larger machines and heavier duty work.
Why fence crews like it: One attachment, every post type, every soil. Bits are replaceable and swap in minutes.
The spec buyers overlook is drive torque, not bit diameter. An undersized drive will mount to your machine, spin freely in the air, and then stall the second it hits clay or hardpan. If your ground is heavy, buy the drive for the soil — not for the price.
3. Hydraulic Post Drivers: The Speed Play
A skid steer post driver hammers the post straight into the ground with a hydraulically powered ram. No hole, no spoil pile, no concrete, no backfill. On a long run of T-posts or round wood posts, it is not a small improvement over an auger — it is a different day.
Best For — Hydraulic Post Driver
Use it when: You are setting T-posts, round wood posts, or steel pipe in workable soil, and the post count is high — field fence, high-tensile, barbed wire, livestock fence.
Hydraulic flow: Most models run on standard auxiliary flow. Verify the required GPM and PSI against your machine before ordering.
Why fence crews like it: Highest posts-per-day of any method, and a driven post compacts soil around itself as it goes in.
That last point gets argued a lot, so here it is plainly: in workable soil, a properly driven post frequently holds better laterally than a post dropped in an augered hole and backfilled with loose spoil. The driving action compacts the soil against the post. Backfill only compacts if somebody actually compacts it, and on a long run, somebody usually does not.
Where a post driver falls short
- Rock, hardpan, and frozen ground will stop the driver or split the post.
- Anything set in concrete still needs a hole.
- Large corner and brace posts usually exceed the driver's practical capacity.
- Some post materials mushroom or split under repeated impact.
4. Auger vs. Post Driver: Which Do You Need?
🔩 Buy the Auger If
- Posts get set in concrete
- You build board, vinyl, chain link, or privacy fence
- Ground is rocky enough that driving is unreliable
- You want the attachment to earn hours off-season
- You set a few dozen posts a year
🔨 Buy the Driver If
- You set T-posts or round wood posts at volume
- You build ag, livestock, or high-tensile fence
- Soil is workable and holds a driven post
- Labor cost per day is your real problem
- You set a few hundred posts a year
Most working fence contractors own both, and the split is consistent: drive the line posts, auger the corners, gates, and braces. Those are the posts carrying the tension of the run, and they are almost always the ones going into concrete.
| Attachment | Fence-Building Job | Aux Hydraulics | Skip It If |
|---|---|---|---|
| Post-hole auger | Drilling holes for set and concreted posts | Required | You only ever drive T-posts |
| Hydraulic post driver | Driving posts with no hole | Required | Your ground is rock or hardpan |
| Root grapple | Old fence, wire, brush, and root removal | Required | You only build on clean, new ground |
| Brush cutter | Opening an overgrown fence row | Required | The line is already mowed |
| Pallet forks | Moving posts, wire rolls, panels, concrete | Not required | Never — buy the forks |
| Tree puller | Pulling saplings and old posts intact | Required | The line has no trees or old posts |
| Stump grinder | Clearing stumps sitting on the post line | Required | Rent it; occasional use only |
| General purpose bucket | Backfill, spoil, and gravel | Not required | You already own one |
5. What Size Auger Bit for Fence Posts?
Bit diameter is driven by post size and whether the post is being concreted. The working rule: a post set in concrete generally wants a hole roughly three times the post diameter so there is a real concrete collar around it. A post backfilled with soil or gravel can run much closer to post size.
| Bit Diameter | Typical Fence Use | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 6" – 9" | Smaller wood line posts, posts backfilled without concrete | Fastest digging, least spoil to move |
| 9" – 12" | Standard wood line posts set in concrete | The most common fence bit size |
| 12" – 18" | Corner posts, gate posts, brace posts | These carry the tension — do not undersize them |
| 18"+ | Heavy commercial posts, sign posts, structural posts | Requires more drive torque and machine capacity |
Standard auger bits are commonly built with about four feet of digging depth, with extensions available when a design calls for deeper. Treat all of the above as general guidance — the right bit depends on your post spec, soil, and local frost depth.
6. Clearing the Fence Line First
Fence lines rarely run through clean ground. Before a single post goes in, the row usually needs brush knocked down and volunteer trees taken out — and if there is an existing fence, all of it has to come out first.
Brush cutters
A skid steer brush cutter is the fastest way to open an overgrown fence row. It cuts grass, weeds, briars, and saplings, and leaves the material on the ground rather than piling it. Use a brush cutter when you need visibility and a clean path down the line — not when the material has to leave the property.
Tree pullers and tree shears
When trees have grown into an old fence line, a tree puller removes them roots and all instead of leaving a stump sitting exactly where the new post needs to go. Pullers also extract old wooden posts intact, which beats snapping them off and trying to auger around what is left underground.
Stumps on the line
If a stump is directly in the path, a stump grinder or stump bucket clears it. This matters more than it sounds — a post set six inches off the line to dodge a stump is a post that looks wrong for the next twenty years.
7. Root Grapples: Tearing Out the Old Fence
The root grapple is the attachment fence builders underestimate most. Pulling out old woven wire, dragging rotted posts, grabbing brush piles, and lifting roots off the line is all grapple work, and the open tine spacing lets soil fall through so you are hauling material instead of dirt.
Where a grapple bucket is the better call: loose, mixed debris. Balled-up wire, broken post fragments, and small brush together. The solid bottom holds what a root grapple drops through, and the lid clamps loads that would otherwise roll off.
On rocky ground, a rock grapple handles both the fence-line cleanup and the stone your auger throws out of every hole. If you are already shoveling rock away from post holes by hand, that is your answer.
8. Pallet Forks: The Attachment Nobody Budgets For
Pallet forks are the least exciting attachment on this list and the one that saves the most labor per dollar. Bundled posts, rolls of wire, fence panels, gates, and bagged concrete all move faster on forks than in a truck bed that cannot get down the line.
The real gain is staging. Set material at intervals along the run and the crew stops walking posts a hundred feet at a time. No auxiliary hydraulics required, no flow to match, and the lowest cost of anything here.
9. Backfill, Concrete, and Finish Work
If you are augering, you are creating a spoil pile at every hole, and that dirt has to go somewhere. A standard skid steer bucket handles backfill, gravel, and spoil removal.
For posts set in concrete, mixing and placing is its own bottleneck. Skid steer concrete attachments let one operator mix and pour at the hole instead of running wheelbarrows. On a job with dozens of concreted posts, that changes the crew size you need to book.
When the fence is up, the ground beside it is torn up. A land leveler or power rake restores the grade and preps for seed. On residential and commercial fence work, the finish grade is frequently what the customer actually judges you on.
10. Matching Attachments to Your Fence Type
| Fence Type | Typical Post Method | Attachments That Matter Most |
|---|---|---|
| Field fence / woven wire | Driven line posts, augered corners | Post driver, auger, root grapple, forks |
| High-tensile wire | Driven line posts, heavy braced corners | Post driver, auger for brace assemblies |
| Barbed wire | Driven T-posts, augered corners | Post driver, auger, brush cutter |
| Board fence | Augered, usually concreted | Auger, forks, concrete attachment |
| Vinyl fence | Augered and concreted | Auger, concrete attachment, forks |
| Chain link | Augered and concreted | Auger, concrete attachment |
| Privacy fence | Augered and concreted | Auger, forks, bucket for backfill |
| Corral / livestock panel | Driven pipe or wood posts | Post driver, forks, root grapple |
11. Common Fence-Building Mistakes
- Buying a post driver for ground that will not take a driven post. Rock, hardpan, and shallow bedrock stop a driver cold. Test-dig before you spend.
- Buying an auger drive that is undersized for the soil. It will mount and turn, then stall in clay. Torque rating beats bit diameter every time.
- Buying one auger bit. Corners and line posts want different holes. One bit guarantees a compromise.
- Ignoring hydraulic flow. An attachment that connects to the coupler is not the same as one the machine can power correctly. Too little flow starves it; too much generates heat and kills the motor.
- Setting posts before clearing the line. Slower, and the fence ends up crooked around obstacles you should have removed.
- Running a brush cutter over buried wire. Cheapest mistake on this list to avoid, most expensive to make.
- Moving posts and wire with a bucket. Material rolls, shifts, and gets damaged. Forks do it in a fraction of the trips.
- Assuming driven posts are always weaker. In workable soil, driven frequently outperforms augered-and-backfilled — because backfill is only as good as the compaction nobody did.
Which Fence Attachments Should You Own vs. Rent?
🚜 Buy These (Used Often)
- Post-hole auger — fencing, signage, planting, footings
- Root grapple — cleanup, storm debris, year-round use
- Pallet forks — cheapest labor savings you can buy
- Post driver — if you set posts at real volume
🏷️ Rent These (Occasional Use)
- Stump grinder — only on major clearing jobs
- Concrete mixer attachment — unless you concrete constantly
- Land leveler / power rake — seasonal finish work
- Hydraulic breaker — rock and old footing removal only
Not sure whether you need an auger, a driver, or both?
Tell us your machine, your soil, and your post type. We spec this every day.
12. Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best skid steer attachment for fence building?
A skid steer auger is the most versatile single attachment for fence building because it drills holes for any post type in nearly any soil. A hydraulic post driver is faster for long runs of driven posts such as T-posts and round wood posts in agricultural fencing. Most fence contractors own both and use the driver for line posts and the auger for corners, gates, and braces.
Can a skid steer dig fence post holes?
Yes. A skid steer with an auger attachment and auxiliary hydraulics digs fence post holes far faster than a handheld or three-point post hole digger. The auger drive mounts to the machine's quick-attach coupler and turns a replaceable bit, with common fence bit diameters running from 6 to 18 inches.
What size auger do I need for fence posts?
For standard wood line posts set in concrete, a 9 to 12 inch bit is common. For corner posts, gate posts, and brace posts, 12 to 18 inches is common. A working rule for concreted posts is a hole roughly three times the post diameter so there is adequate concrete around it. Posts backfilled with soil or gravel can use a smaller hole.
Is a post driver better than an auger for fence posts?
A post driver is faster for long runs of T-posts, round wood posts, and steel pipe in workable soil, and driven posts often hold well laterally because soil compacts around them as they go in. An auger is better when posts must be set in concrete, when the ground is rocky or frozen, or when the design requires a specific hole depth. Neither one fully replaces the other on a complete fence job.
What attachment removes an old fence?
A root grapple is the most effective attachment for removing old fence. It grabs and pulls old woven wire, rotted posts, and brush while letting soil fall through the tines. A tree and post puller works well for extracting set posts intact, and a grapple bucket is better for loose, mixed debris such as balled wire and broken post fragments.
Do I need high-flow hydraulics for fence building attachments?
Usually not. Augers, post drivers, root grapples, and most brush cutters run within standard auxiliary flow, commonly around 11 to 25 GPM. High-flow versions exist for larger machines and heavier duty work. Always compare the specific attachment's stated GPM range against your machine's auxiliary flow before ordering.
What attachment clears a fence line?
A brush cutter is the fastest attachment for clearing an overgrown fence row of grass, weeds, briars, and saplings. If the line has larger trees or stumps, a tree puller, tree shear, or stump grinder handles those. A root grapple then removes the resulting debris. Pull any old wire out first — it damages cutting attachments.
Do fence attachments fit compact track loaders?
Most do. Attachments on this list use the universal SSQA quick-attach plate and fit both wheeled skid steers and compact track loaders. CTLs are often preferred for fence work on soft or wet ground because tracks reduce rutting along the line. Confirm hydraulic flow, coupler type, and rated operating capacity against the specific attachment before ordering.
13. Shop Fence Building Attachments
The right setup depends on your machine make and model, auxiliary hydraulic flow, rated operating capacity, coupler type, post spec, soil conditions, and the kind of fence you build. Start with those and we will narrow it down before you spend money on something that will not perform on your ground.
- Shop Post-Hole Augers — drives and bits for fence, gate, and brace posts
- Shop Hydraulic Post Drivers — for T-posts, wood posts, and pipe
- Shop Root Grapples — old fence, brush, and root removal
- Shop Brush Cutters — standard and high-flow fence-line models
- Shop Pallet Forks — posts, wire rolls, panels, and gates
- Browse All Skid Steer Attachments
Got a fence project coming up? Tell us the machine, the soil, and the post type — we will match you to the right attachment.
Request a Quote